How To Relax

 Note: Some things written here are based on knowledge I learned in cosmetology school that I mixed with a keep it simple idea to help women of color do it more easily and effectively at home. I am currently not a practicing hair stylist but I felt the need to share what the pros know (or should know) to empower women of color to take control of their own hair. This isn't the end all be all of info. So as always... do your research!

This is a long one to write but I felt the need to do so simply because this could be the very root of a lot of women's hair problems. An improper relaxer can cause a setback for months. There is no repairing it, only temporarily holding on to it as you grow it out.

Before I begin it is important that you (the reader) must understand that everyone can't relax their hair straight.

If you have naturally fine hair (your individual hair strand when compared to others is small not the amount of hairs on your head per square inch) my honest opinion is that you leave some texture (leaving a wave pattern as opposed to bone straight) in your hair or don't relax at all.


IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT RELAXERS

It's important that you know how relaxers work in order to use them correctly. Without this knowledge you may miss an important step, or pick one not suited for your hair type.

There are 2 types of relaxer:

1) Sodium Hydroxide aka Lye - This is a lye often mixed with emulsifiers (creams which allows oil and water to mix), mineral oil, water, and petroleum jelly. These much stronger to straighten the hair, but are also much stronger on the scalp. Therefore should never be applied directly to the scalp. 

2) Calcium Hydroxide bka No-Lye (other formulations include potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate used for permanent waves.) - I'm going to talk about Calcium Hydroxide because it is the most sold in "box perms" on store shelves. Calcium Hydroxide has to be mixed with Guanidine Carbonate to create lye.

What was that?

You're thinking, "Isn't this a No-Lye relaxer."

Sure, that's what is written on the box... but it's not true. You see, this is a weaker form of lye that is gentler on the scalp so by this standard the U.S government allows for "No-Lye" to be printed on the box.

But make no mistake... this is lye.

Okay, so let me ask you (the reader) a question. What does neutralizer do?

A) Stop the action of a relaxer.

B) Lock the hair in the straight form.

C) Lowers the PH down to normal.

If you answered A....  then you are incorrect! I had to write this because I've heard this said so many times it makes my head spin. I don't know where this story came from. All I know is that answering this wrong can keep you from getting the most out of your relaxer.

Neutralizer locks the hair in its straight form.

Let me repeat that...

Neutralizer locks the hair in its straight form!

What else does it do? Well, relaxer has a very high (10-14) ph but human hair doesn't. So it's is important to bring the hair back down to normal after relaxing. Neutralizer helps to do that.


What is the best relaxer for you? It's not about brand it's about chemical makeup and your body. Exp.

Sensitive scalp + course hair: remember Calcium Hydroxide is gentler on the scalp. Because it also doesn't straighten as well as Sodium, course hair would not be advised to use it in a mild. If Sodium Hydroxide is preferred a sensitive scalp would not be advised to go over a mild and should always base the scalp (read below for directions).

So when should I get a retouch? every six weeks? Two things:

1) Hair grows on an average of 1/2 inch a month. That is average. Some grow a little slower. Some grow a little faster. Measure your new growth to find out. Then only go in when you at least have 1 inch of new growth to avoid accidental overlap which can cause breakage.

2) Never, ever, ever overlap your relaxer (relax previously relaxed hair).

Let me repeat this...

Never relax previously relaxed hair!

This will cause a setback. It may not happen immediately but in a few months time it will hit you. Thinning, uneven ends, and breakage an inch or two from the root are signs that your hair has been over-processed.


WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Now that you know how relaxers works, what is best suited for you, and what not to do, lets discuss what you will need to proceed.

If working with a Lye relaxer or just doing a touch up it may be convenient to pick up a bowl to separate your relaxer with. Using a smaller portion may also help you from over doing the application. So a bowl and an application brush with a rat tail end for parting is great!

 

I should let you know that you can now order relaxer application brushes too!!!

And of course you will need gloves. Good gloves. I say buy your own and don't use the cheap ones that come with the box perm.

 

Never try to tackle loose hair! Better to sperate it in sections. What is the best way to do this? Clips! But not just any clips. Never use silver or gold clips because they can chemically react porley to lye.

Let me repeat that.

Don't use metal or gold clips with relaxer!

There are a lot of pre-relaxer bases on the market but you can also use plain old petroleum jelly. Now, it is my personal belief that if you have sensitive scalp you should base it even if you are using a No-Lye relaxer. Everyone using a Lye relaxer must base their scalp and around their hairline. No question!

 

Now these next two items are optional but let me tell you why I love them!  Remember relaxer breaks the protein bonds in the hair in order to straighten it. Well, why not build that protein back up after the straightening process!

This can be done a few ways:

1) Easiest - Mix a cap full of protein filler into your relaxer (approximately 1 cup of relaxer). You can buy this at Sally Beauty Supply in the hair color isle or online.

 

2) Cool Way - Apply Aphogee 2 minute after you rinse your relaxer out but before you add a neutralizer. Rinse after 2 minutes then apply neutralizer. Note: You can also use this right after you relax as a nice deep condition. But don't do both. Use the step outline or do it this way.

Also comes in packet form.

3) Strongest way - Apply either Aphogee 2 step (not to be mistaken for 2 minute) or Joico K-pak (they have a generic brand one at Sally beauty supply. Can be purchased online) 1 week before your relaxer AND 1 week after your relaxer. 

 

And of course a a nice moisturizing deep conditioner for the after math is always great! Here is a short list on Hairlista.com : 

1. Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol
2. KeraCare Humecto
3. Lustrasilk Shea Butter & Mango Cholesterol
4. Africa's Best Organics Olive Oil Deep Conditioner
5. Silk Elements Mega Silk Moisturizing Treatment
6. Creme of Nature Nourishing & Strengthening Treatment
7. Pantene Relaxed and Nature Breakage Defense Mask
8. Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
9. Queen Helen Cholesterol Conditioner
10. Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm 

THE PROCEDURE

 Step 1

Divide hair into 4 parts. Remember, use your clips (no metal or gold).

Step 2

No-Lye: Base around your hairline.  

Lye: Base around your hairline and your entire scalp.  

Very Important Note: For those of you reading this that will be doing this on their own and have not done it before, or have a sensitive scalp. Don't try to tackle all your hair at once. You may not be fast enough in application. I repeat... don't try to tackle all your hair at once!!! Do steps 3 - 5 to only half of your hair first... then go back and do it to the remaining half. This way you give yourself more time to do it right.

Step 3

Put on your gloves. Pick up your application brush!

Virgin Hair: Apply from roots to ends quickly. Use back of brush to part hair. Apply to part of hair lifted and to part of hair laying flat to move faster. This insures that both sides of each hair section are are well coated. Always do edges last! They are fragile and doing them first or second could lead to over-processing and breakage.

New Growth: Apply only to roots quickly. Use back of brush to part hair. Apply to part of hair lifted and to part of hair laying flat to move faster. This insures that both sides of each hair section are are well coated. Always do edges last! They are fragile and doing them first or second could lead to over-processing and breakage.

Step 4

Go back and smooth the hair.  

Step 5

Rinse without scrunching the hair. Your want to smooth it straight as you rinse. 

Step 6

*Note: This is the point where you can do the optional protein step above but remember to not scrunch the hair it needs to be smoothed on. Then rinse and proceed to the step below.

Apply neutralizing shampoo, but don't scrunch and scrub yet! Smooth your hair in a straight motion. Remember neutralizer helps lock hair in the straight form.  

Step 7

Rinse again.

Step 8

Apply neutralizing shampoo again and scrub like you would with a regular shampoo.

Step 9

Final rinse. Rinse until water runs clear.

Step 10

*Optional, but a great way to pamper your hair, deep condition with a moisturizing deep conditioner.

After Care

Always do a strand test 2 weeks after your relaxer. Then again at 4 weeks. This way you can catch a problem before it starts. Always know your moisture/protein level. A strand test can tell you if your hair needs more protein or more moisture. Don't wait until breakage occurs. Do a strand test.

I repeat...

Do a strand test!!!       

*Bonus Info: How To Texlax Your Hair?

It's the same steps above except you either:

A) Smooth the relaxer (so no step 4) which means you rinse only a few minutes after you have applied it.

or

B) Add 2 tbsp of conditioner per 1 cup of relaxer. This dilutes the relaxer making it unable to straighten hair fully.

I hope this helps. Happy hair journey!