Why Hair Breaks?

What could contribute to broken hair?

There are a lot of reasons why our hair breaks some of which often fall under the radar.

Often common hair practices are just as big a culprit as jumping feet first into the moisture/protein overload world people beginning a healthy hair journey can fall prey too.

So here is a list of the obvious and maybe not so obvious issues.

Combing And Manipulation

I know you're thinking, how can you comb your hair wrong? Oh, lots of ways. In fact this is the number one reasons why people reach for straighteners. They hate those de-tangle days. This is usually because they do them wrong. How?

• Combing from the root first instead of the ends.
• Not working with hair in sections.
• Combing bone dry hair.
• Allowing hair to shrink before combing.
• Not using something to smooth the hair first.
• Not setting hair to air dry first.
• Not using a simple, yet abundant, thing called H20 to aide them
• Combing hair too much!

How to correct this?

• Comb hair from the ends up.
• Work with hair in 4-6 sections.
• Comb hair while slightly damp.
• Set hair in 2 strand twists, braids, or rollers to hair dry first.
• Use a conditioner as a leave-in or purchase a leave-in conditioner to apply before you comb.
• Try doing your first de-tangle under the running shower water. And ponytail, braid, twist, etc. basically become a bit of a shower stylist.
• Reduce your manipulation by shampooing in braids or twists. Or rock a braid and 2 strand twist style for a while. They can be easily shampooed and conditioned.

Hair Bands, Clips, & Ponytail/Bun Placement

This is a minor annoyance that can become a major setback. Hair bands can cut into weak hair, and hair can wrap around them when removed. Clips and hair accessory with teeth can... well... literally bite into and chew hair up.  And finally constantly wearing your ponytail or bun in the same spot can cause hair to break in the center.

How to correct or prevent this:

• Cut kiddie tights or the ends off off knee highs to use as hair bands.
• Avoid any hair accessory with teeth. Buy clips and toothless headbands.
• Move your bun or ponytail around each time you do it. Take it down at night and check for moisture and protein.

Over Processed Hair

This can  be done accidentally but some times it's also done by your hair stylist. You can maintain a relaxed style while letting your hair rest. You don't need to relax your hair every 6 weeks.

Let me repeat that.

You don't need to relax your hair every six weeks! You can determine that by measuring your new growth instead of by date. Allow your hair to grow an inch to prevent the accidental overlap of the lye onto your previously relaxed hair.

But how do I deal with this dry, vastly different textured, new growth you ask?

• Try using plain old conditioner as a leave-in to smooth roots. Seal with oil. Apply scarf for 20 mins. for smooth edges.
• Frequent co-wash/co-rinse. This is when you use a conditioner to wash (in place of shampoo) or rise your hair (by rinse I mean rinse hair with water apply conditioner, rinse out.).
• Wear a low manipulation style that allows your two textures to blend. Exp: Braid-outs, two strand twists, braids, etc. Note: The hair should be moisturized and sealed with oil at least 3x a week.
• Aloe juice or aloe gel (can be used like hair gel). Use them to soften and/or smooth new growth.
• Gel like La Bella & Eco Styler mixed with 5-10 tbps of oil can make a slick yet movable hold to edges. Note: Use a satin scarf for 20 minutes to get the slickest look.

For people that are not protein sensitive you can use a strong protein treatment like Aphogee 2 step protein or Joico K-pak one week before your relaxer and one week after to prevent damage and strengthen hair.

If you are protein sensitive give henna a try. Note: it naturally has a red tint to it but can be purchased pre-mixed with darker natural shades.

Double Processed Hair

This is simply hair that has been relaxed and colored.  Often times this reeks havoc on protein in hair. So the first thing you have to do is reach for the protein treatment, then let it grow out as you moisturize.

Another thing it can do is cause hair to become porous. A sign of this is more noticeable in color treated ladies. They may find that their color fades extremely fast. There are treatments available online and at Sally Beauty Supply to help with this issue.

Weave & Artificial Braid Damage

We do them, we love them, but they could be doing more harm than good.  How?

• Some braiding hair is a little too much for some hair types and can cut into your ends. This can break them off when you remove them. Opt for softer hair or human hair to do them with.
• Sow in thread can damage your braided hair if sown too tight. The thread can cut into many hair types.
• Track glue on hair. Removing this rubber like glue can rip hair out. Apply all over to scalp can block pores.
• Hair gelled quick weaves: Gelling your whole head with black gel and gluing on tracks is a recipe for disaster. not only is the gel (which should be wet and not combed out) going to be a pain to remove without damaging hair, but the scalp can't breath. You also risk trapping bacteria on the scalp. Too much of which can lead to thinning and hair loss from the root. That's right, if you're patting your weave, there could be an underlying, and dangerous problem.
• Leave out: Too much manipulation to leave out with heat, harsh gels, and even constant brushing to blend can break those ends right off. Be conscious of the condition of your leave out and condition your leave out. <- You see what I did there :o)
• Microbraids: Not a big believer in these for the simple fact that I think it is just too much pressure on hair. The smaller you make them prepare for more damage.
• Fusion: Do at your own risk. I don't even feel comfortable telling people to do them. Just make sure you find someone who can remove them with little to no damage. Even if you have to spend a little more. 
• Lack of moisture: Just because you have a weave or braids does not mean you can ignore your hair. It has to be moisturized on a regular basis. 
• Cleanliness: Putting a weave or braids in then going for months without cleansing your scalp is not the thing to do. Buildup is going to cause your hair to grow slower. Of course it will grow, but I'd rather be guaranteed that I get my 1/2 inch or more in 30 days than in 60. Also, all that bacteria over the years will add up. You don't want to wake up one day and find that you ruined your hair follicles :/ There are quite a few ways to clean your scalp and stay bacteria free. Witch hazel can clean a scalp while things like vinegar, or diluted peppermint oil can keep the germs away (and calm itch really well). Braids can even be cleaned with a gentle, reduced sud shampoo or diluted shampoo.

Hair Gel

The bad news: They are not all created equal.  The good news: Hair companies are listening to the consumer. I normally would have to tell you to stay away from gels with excessive protein, alcohol, and of course flaking. However these are becoming less and less prevalent on store shelves as companies actively get into making things like olive oil, aloe, and argon oil a gel mix.

Instead I will just suggest two things to avoid doing when using gel:

1) Avoid combing gel out of hair. This can lead to breakage. Instead take a spray bottle and mix water with a couple of tbs of conditioner and spray that on your hair til damp to loosen.

2) Avoid apply gel to hair without anything underneath it. In other words, prep your hair with a leave-in conditioner (you can even use plain old conditioner) followed by an oil before applying your gel.

Also, if you find that the gel you bought is a little too drying experiment with mixing oils, glycerin, and 100% pure aloe gel into it. In some cases you may even be able to make a custard by mixing conditioner into it. Note: not all gels mix well so you will have to play around with it in small doses to see what is compatible.

Excessive Heat

Heat damage is a problem! Why? Three main reasons:

1) Messes with natural oils that help hair.

2) Destroys or breaks down protein in hair.

3) Can remove moisture from hair by boiling it off.

You love it but it doesn't love you. Here are some of the main culprits:

• Blow drying wet hair on high heat. This is one of the biggest ways to damage your hair. Using heat to rapidly dry water on your hair strand can create blister like things on the hair strand which becomes a weak point. If you constantly have short hair on the floor after blow drying there could be a problem. 
• Flat ironing and/or curling daily or weekly can be too much. And doing it without a heat protectant is even worse. We all love straight hair but at what cost?

Lets look at some alternatives to curb the problem:

• Try air drying in sets like rollers, two-strand twists, 4-8 braids, etc.
• Try blow drying slowly on cool
• Try roller wrapping for a straight look (which also give more body) by rollersetting, sitting under a dryer, then wrapping your hair. For a bone straight look, wrap the hair, apply oil, then plastic wrap, and sit under the dryer for 10 mins.
• Always use a heat protectant. Products that condition hair can also be used as heat protectants simply because they coat the hair and/or lubricate it.

Lack Of Moisture

Pop question: What is the opposite of dry?

Answer: Wet

Water is not a no no in black hair care.

Let me repeat that!

Water is NOT a no no in black hair care.

Hair thrives on water. It can soften texture, and help elasticity.

But how do we keep this water in our hair thus maintaining moisture?

Conditioner, Oil, and Protective Styling!!! This is hands down one of the biggest reason my hair was able to retain so much length.

• Conditioner helps to lock in moisture while also creating a barrier to everyday where and tear. It softens hair, helps with elasticity, and even creates a nice shine.
• Oil locks everything in point, blank, period. Applying oil to dry hair can be a bit of a waste. But applying oil to hair that is damp, and has a leave-in conditioner in it is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your hair. it allows the hair to finally dry much softer, stronger, and shinier than before.
• Protective Styles are styles that gently keep your ends up and out of the air and away from anything that can cause them to get dry. A very popular protective style for people with excessively dry ends is the bun or to moisturize and seal your bun with oil then to apply a plastic cap/bag/wrap over the bun (this can be done over night or quite a few times a week and covered with a phony pony. Avoid doing it excessively).

All of these things allow the moisture, or rather, the water from escaping your hair. For an added boost. Try rinsing your hair every 3 days, applying conditioner for 3 minutes then rinsing it out. Or replace your shampoo with a conditioner and co-wash (conditioner wash) more frequently throughout the week.

Lack Of Protein or Too Much Protein

I cover this in the over processed part but I need to drill it home. Hair is made up of protein. Relaxing, perming, coloring, and even excessive heat can compromise that protein and no amount of moisture can help that.  Without it wet hair looses its elasticity and can seem mushy or act like an old wet rubber band.

While everyone does not need to do a protein treatment, but everyone should do a strand test every 4-6 weeks to stay on top of it.

Once you find a protein that works don't over do it! Strong protein treatment are made to last on the hair strand up to 6 weeks. While mild - medium ones can last anywhere from 2-4 weeks. So using protein weekly is unnecessary. If you have to do this there is a good chance that the product you are using is not right for your hair type.

How do you figure this out quickly?

Again...

DO A STRAND TEST!

Guessing does not help. Get to the root of the problem ASAP. Find out where your moisture and protein stands stat!!!!!!!!! It takes all of 3 minutes to do. Don't avoid it! Click here to learn how--> My Hair Bible: Balancing Act