Thursday, May 30, 2013

What Helped Me Stretch/Transition



Having stretched relaxers ( & texlaxes), and having been on a long term transition to natural for about 2 years and five months, I can tell you a little bit about how to get over that bumpy road.

So here is my list of things that got me through the battle to win the war of the feuding hair textures.




5) LOW MANIPULATION

Hair Combing: I don't do it unless A) I have conditioner in my hair or B) My head is under running water.

Water running through hair is the hands down, easiest way to comb hair point, blank,period. I'll elaborate on the conditioner a little later on this post because it deserves its own number.

Shampooing: I never tackle my whole head at once. I ALWAYS wash my hair in sections or in 4-6 loose braids. This prevents unnecessary tangling during the shampoo process.

Brushes: I don't use them but 3-4x a year. Combs get the job done without pulling out so much hair. If you're a brush girl get a boar brush for dry hair, and a denman brush for wet hair.


Hair Styles: I choose styles that A) Require very little upkeep B) Allow me the ability to moisture my hair C) Protect my ends.

The best hairstyles for stretching/transitioning in my opinion are braids (regular sized, not micros.) 2-strand twists, and buns.

I bun at least 4 days a week.

Let me repeat that tea.

I bun at least 4 DAYS A WEEK! Why? This allows my ends to not only be protected but it also prevents   My ends from becoming too dry. 

I spin my hair around forming a donut shape and pin my ends under (note: use hair pins as anything else could put pressure on hair. And move the bun around. Don't always wear it in the same exact spot.)

Do you ever get bored?

Yup, that's why I invested in buns, Afro puffs, hair decor, and half/whole wigs. A rock it all while concealing and protecting my hair in a bun. My hair needs its rest.


4) MOISTURIZE 

My thing is a simple formula water+conditioner+oil=success! I do this to my roots, and I ALWAYS do this to my ends.

If you don't co-wash/co-rinse you might want to set aside 3 days a week to do this. I do co-rinse a lot, especially in the spring/summer. So when my hair is wet I apply conditioner, comb my hair, and seal with coconut oil or a coconut oil mix.


3) STRAND TEST

Every 4 to 6 weeks I do a strand test. I need to know if my hair is over moisturized or on a protein overload (I wrote how to do a strand test in My Hair Bible). 

With hair that is stretching 9x out of 10 you are going to need a protein treatment of some kind to prevent breakage at the line of demarcation ( where your natural hair and your processed hair meets.)

Why? Because the protein bonds in your hair were broken to move it into a straighter state and your new growth is drastically different.

This can cause it to break right at that point. I can't tell you what to use you are Going to have to find that out for your self. 

A general rule is that fine hair tends to need more protein than thick hair strands. My favorite products are Aphogee 2-Step, Joico K-Pak, and henna.

I have fine hair strands so someone with thick hair might prefer Aphogee 2 MINUTE, while someone with medium hair might like Joico and henna.


2) CONDITIONER

I'm about to really speak my truth here. You can read My Hair Bible to learn how I got to this conclusion.

Continuer is the truth! I deep condition, I co-rinse (conditioner rinse. Similar co-wash=to wash with conditioner), and I use plain old conditioner as my leave-in.

You read that right. 

I. LEAVE. CONDITIONER. IN. MY. HAIR!

What does that do, you ask? It A) protects my ends like nothing on this planet!!! B) Softens my new growth like butter. 

Don't believe me? Take a small section of your hair, apply one of your conditioners (that you normally would wash out), and comb it through.

Apply an oil of your choice then two strand twist that hair. Let it dry completely, then take it loose and feel it.

Believe me now?

This method prevent my ends from breaking off for 6 months straight! Favorite products for the job: Vo5 Strawberries & Cream, Suave Humectant Moisture, and sometimes Suave Almond & Shea Butter (though I prefer this more as my go to wash out condition along with Aussie 2 minute.)


1) WATER

I shut off all those voices in the black community talking about black hair and water/washing like they were telling a ghost story. H20 has lead me through this journey like a lamp in the dark.

 After testing it out I found that constant use of water applied externally to the hair softened my texture, helped my scalp, and helped my hair grow to its full monthly potential.

I make sure water touches my head 3x a week. I don't flat iron but every 4-6 months so this is not an issue. Most importantly combing my hair under running water allows me to bun in under 2 minutes flat!

Edited to add:

Do an experiment with your hair. Try rinsing it with warm water, applying conditioner for a few minutes, then rinse it out, every 2-3 days. See how your hair or new growth feels after 1 week of doing that. Increase it by a day and document it. Meaning, if you did it every 3 days last week then try every 2 days the following week. You might be surprised at what you found out about your hair.


To recap: Stretching for me consisted of moisturize, condition, seal (with oil), bun, and checking for moisture and/or protein overload.

Most of the time I wash in braids, comb my hair out UNDER running water, ponytail in the shower, and use the scarf method ( apply conditioner, oil, and often gel to edges, then a satin scarf for 10- 20 mins) when I get out.

This allows me to spend no more than 15-20 mins tops on my hair. As Tracyee would say, "Keep it simple sista!" 


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